Prada, I literally love this woman forever and always I don’t care if I’m biased. This season Miuccia and Raf were inspired by uniforms. Quoted “give importance to what is modest”. Within this collection you can see nods to nurse and military uniforms. Being a year now since the war in Ukraine, Prada wanted to give attention to the front liners as last year’s collection was inspired by the events taking place. Displayed are garments you would see in WWII posters of women helping in the war, real life women. Gone is the beauty and glamour and here is the ugly and true. Perfect for Prada as they’re always known for their ugly-chic aesthetic.
Blumarine always understand what Y2K trend to bring. This season brought on the scene kid with metallics, shearling, and buckles scatter throughout the collection. A burning B in the background, Brognano was inspired by Joan of Arc. Taking influences from the Middle Ages and the 1999 movie “The Messenger: The Story of Joan of Arc”. Though one would think these three would work Brognano does a wonderful job at fusing all three aesthetic together to create the collection we have here. It continues to having the Y2K elements that the brand is popular for but with a more serious darker tone.
GCDS brought the suits. This collection mixed the menswear with womenswear. Everyone and their mother was wearing a suit or at least some sort of iteration of a suit. Maturity is a word I would give this collection because I feel the brand has grown from previous.
Day Three, Gucci. Now I normally don’t talk about Gucci often not because I don’t like them because I do. I can recognize that it’s a brand that release good items but not my style. That’s not the case this season. With the departure of Michele people are left wondering how Gucci will look now. Their new creative director, Sabato De Sarno, will not debut until Spring 2024 this collection I feel was a reflection. Mixing in designs and aesthetics from Michele and Ford, the brand showed that they are more than their creative director. This was noted as the staff came out and bowed at the finale.
Sunnei, of course I had to talk about them. Sunnei was quite literally a concert meets a runway show. By now you all might of heard of the crowd surfing moment. The show was a white rectangular catwalk high up so that you would look up at the models. At the end of the catwalk the models would then throw themselves backwards to be caught by the audience to crowd surf. Making up the models were the staff members of the brand as the designers believe they desired recognition for their efforts. The crowd surfing in a way was a hint towards taking a leap of faith or risk. Reminding everyone of just that. The collection on the other hand was very trendy. That’s it just trendy, the pieces will sell and be popular but the wow factor was more in the performance than the collection.
Jil Sanders looked to the 90s and 2000s for inspiration. Having a more simplistic approach this season the collection was very polished but at times made no sense. Starting with a moto inspired pieces then eventually ending in garments with fruit and candies printed on them. The overall collection was beautiful but also kind of left me confused. I will say that they were hit by the skirt over pants trend.
Tati Violet 