PFW Day Four

Rabanne gave off Amazonian warrior princess energy. Continuing with the house stables we saw various iterations of the house’s metals done in a very ready to wear away that also gave couture status. Paco’s past work often referenced looks of priestesses and that was referenced here. Also another hint of feathers were presented.

Chloe said goodbye to Gabriela Hearst. This collection took inspiration from flowers like many have this past week and the other half was quite western. Very cowgirl chic if you will as you can see the contrast stitching on jackets that mimic that aesthetic. Loved that they ended the show with all of them dancing.

I always love me a Schiaparelli collection. Here we finally saw the lobster dress be referenced, a moment everyone has been waiting for. Roseberry stated that he wanted to wait to reference this at the house and felt this was the perfect moment. He stated this collection is an ode to youth and it shows in all the looks. Some highlights I enjoyed were the lobster skirt with the lobster figure placed directly over the crotch. Kendall’s finale dress which I believe is constructed from red press on nails also caught my attention. Also correct me if I’m wrong but did one of the models have a bull bellybutton ring? Wild. You see the surrealist references through the crabs necklaces, key hole cutout on shoes and garments, toes on shoes.

NYFW Day Five

Gabriela Hearst Spring 2023 was about joy. The runway told a story of female empowerment and what a wonderful job it did. My first thought while looking at the pieces was literally Grecian or Egyptian Goddess. Introduction consisting of gold and black and gave the feeling of female warrior women. May that be amazonian or not, the gold leather was molded in a way that resembles a breast plate. The inner mixing of flowy gowns and power suits blended perfectly together.

PH5 Spring 2023 was all about the ocean and ocean preservation. The brand being known for having the wavy hem, this definitely benefited them this season. The pieces resembling oceanic plants or having an array of blue and green hues. Another focus on this collection was the sustainability on how the items were made. All items being knitted on a machine that creates less waste.

Brandon Maxwell Spring 2023 was full of pastel Y2K club energy. With a lavender back drop and runway the collection felt happy and youthful. Maxwell knowing his audience and going off of the increased popularity of Y2K created a collection that was reminiscent of his youth. Recently moving it made him really focus on thoughts and memories from the past. Thus creating pieces that reminded him of that time. Let’s examine the white tank top underneath moment, Prada’s impact.

Christian Cowan Spring 2023 followed along the same mindset as Maxwell. This season he wanted to go back to his youth, to experiment with clothing like he did when he had just graduated. The looks played on the excitement and doe eyed appeal to fashion he had during that time. From the theatrics to the denim gown. Cowan brought a great sense of amusement.

Peter Do Spring 2023 titled the show Time. Typically known for making tailored pieces for women, this season Do dressed everyone. Stating that his items were already unisex but this time working with new size labels than the ones used before. Consisting of mostly black and white but never boring. Blazers were open in the back. Skirt waist bands were done in a belt to be adjustable. There were also tank tops and pants that were made to look like patent leather but were constructed from discarded shrimp shells. I did not know that was even possibly which is why I love Peter Do so much.