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Introductions

Introductions: Prada

After what almost feels like a year from my last “Introductions” post, I’m surprised it took me this long to write about my favorite brand. My obsession with the brand started off as a joke. Being obsessed with fashion at a young age caused a lot of “The Devil Wears Prada” jokes with me. Thus creating interest in the brand.

Founded in 1913 by Mario Prada, the brand originally specialized in leather handbags, travel accessories, etc.Their first shop was called “Fratelli Prada”, translating to Prada brothers, was owned and operated by Mario and Martino Prada. There is where they sold animal goods, English steamer trunks, and handbags; something that was very common for famous brands during this era. Mario believing women shouldn’t run the company eventually passed the brand onto his daughter, Luisa Prada, when his son didn’t want it. (The irony of it all). Through Luisa is where we are given Miuccia. Born as Maria Bianchi on May 1oth, 1949 in Milan to Luigi Bianchi and Luisa Prada. She would later take the name Miuccia Prada in the 80s after being adopted by an aunt. Miuccia was the youngest of three, older siblings including Albert and Martina.

Surprisingly Miuccia had very little interest in fashion at the beginning. Graduating with a PhD in Political Science from the “University of Milan” her career did not push her in the realm of Prada until later on in life. She trained as a mime at the “Teatro Piccolo” and performed for five years, was a member of the Italian Communist Party, and was involved with women’s rights movements in the 70s. It wasn’t until the mid-seventies where Miuccia would take over the family business. During this time she met Patrizio Bertelli who had started his own leather good business at the age of twenty-four and would eventually become her business partner and future husband. Patrizio was the one to advised Miuccia on the end of steamer trunks and change the products of the brand. This is what lead us to the infamous nylon bags.

By 1979 Miuccia released the first collection of backpacks and totes made of nylon. This is the same nylon that was used as coverings for the trunks. Ten years later in 1989 the first women’s ready-to-wear collection would be released. This collection was known for their dropped waist and narrow belts. The brand would gain popularity for their clean lines and basic colors. Prada in a way is considered “Ugly Chic” mixing the old and new the ugly and chic. They are all about function rather than beauty. Towards the 90s is where Prada really starting gaining its popularity. With fashion in this era being loud and full of many colors, Prada brought the opposite. Being in a way, the ugly duckling which is what made them more interesting. A lot of earlier collections resonated with audiences due to the fact that it was perfect for the every day woman.

The brand continues being a leading force in fashion due to the juxtaposition in collections and overall aesthetic. Not just women’s ready-to-wear but men’s as well. Not to mention Prada Sport and Prada Linea Rossa. Prada Sport was sportswear line created in 1998 that now does not produce as much as before but is still in effect. Prada Linea Rossa has caught the eye of streetwear culture and is kind of what took over Prada Sport when Barrett left the company. As well as Miu Miu, which is viewed as a little sister to the Prada line (I’m obsessed with both). Other than clothing, the company has “Fondazione Prada” which is an institution devoted to artists in Milan. Raf Simons has joined the Prada team and we’re just getting a feel for what he will bring to the brand. With only a few collections from the duo I still don’t have an opinion on his impact but so far so good. The one thing I love about Prada is the variety in aesthetics, as someone who likes to dabble in all it’s nice to have a brand that does that in such a way that I feel compliments my personal style.

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Introductions

Introductions: Willi Smith

As some of you know, last year I started my Introductions series where I introduced you to black designers or other notable individuals in the fashion industry. I did this in light of everything that has happened this time last year. I want to shed some light on young designers or people in fashion that I feel everyone should know. Willi Smith, at the time of his death, was regarded as one of the most successful African-American designers. As I listen to podcasts and read fashion articles, I couldn’t help but ask myself, “Why am I just now learning about Willi Smith?”

Born on Feb. 29th, 1948 in Philadelphia to an iron worker father and homemaker mother. His grandmother was a house keeper for a family that was close to the designer Arnold Scaasi. Through this connection, Smith received an internship at Scaasi. Later in his life he studied art and design at Parson’s, but would eventually drop out to do freelance work. His inspiration was literally from what people wore in the streets of New York. Smith’s first big break as a designer was for a brand called Digits, a clothing brand targeted to junior’s sportswear. Smith was the lead designer from 1969-1973. In 1970, while still working for Digits, he met Laurie Mallat while she was on holiday. Smith hired her to be a design assistant for Digits in 1971. Mallat would eventually go on to be a life long business partner.

In 1976, Smith and Mallat traveled to India to produce a small collection of women’s separates. The successful collection birthed WilliWear. Smith was credited to be one of the first designers to have both men and women’s clothing under their brand. The first WillieWear show was done in Hollywood Solomon Gallery in Spring of 1978. This collection was based off of nautical uniforms and Southeast Asian attire. In 1983, Williwear released a major collection called Street Couture. That same year Smith became the youngest designer to win a fashion critic award. He brought street fashion on to the runway, which was something that hadn’t being done at the time. Smith often said “I don’t design clothes for the queen but for the people who wave at her as she goes by”. Willi Smith would eventually pass away on Apr. 16th, 1987 after acquiring shigella and pneumonia on a fabric search in India. He was hospitalized for these infections and tested positive for AIDS. He passed away the following day. Though Smith is now passed, his legacy in the fashion world continues to live on. He was one of the first African-American fashion designers to create clothing that was inspired for and created for every day people. His designs constantly blurred the lines in the gender norms of streetwear clothing.

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Introductions: Elizabeth Keckley

To start off these “Introductions” series I decided to go with Elizabeth Keckley. I will admit that I had no prior knowledge on who this woman was until I listened to a Fashion Victims’ podcast where Darnell Jamal spoke a little about her. Jamal sparked my interest and I wanted to know more of her story. Elizabeth Keckley is known as an author if you do any basic google search. But I was introduced to her through fashion as the personal modiste and dressmaker for the former first lady, Mary Todd Lincoln. This is Keckley’s story.

Born into slavery in February 1818. She had a mother who was a light-skinned house slave that had white aristocratic ancestors.. Elizabeth and her mother both worked for her father, Armstead Burwell. She began working at the age of four where she had to be a a nursemaid to her half siblings. Elizabeth did not know Burwell was her father until her mother confessed it on her death bed. Growing up Elizabeth was taught how to make dresses by her mother so she could assist her. This was a big turning point in her life because when Elizabeth became her sister’s slave she would eventually help her family earn an income. Ann, Elizabeth’s half-sister, and her family had moved many times and finally settled in St. Louis. Ann’s family struggled financially but from Elizabeth’s dress making, along with the help of her mother and child, she would eventually provide for the family of seventeen.

Elizabeth saw the success she had while dress making so she made a deal with Ann’s husband, for her to buy her freedom. After a while of trying to persuade him, Elizabeth was released for $1,000 (which right now would be around $32,927) and was manumitted on Nov. 15, 1855. Elizabeth bought her and her son’s freedom, as she didn’t want her grand kids to be born in to slavery. After this Elizabeth moved to Washington but did not have enough funding to stay there long. One of her clients petitioned to the Mayor for Elizabeth and he granted her a license free of charge. This is era in which Elizabeth began to climb and be the dressmakers for many socialites. Women liked her style of dresses because they were sophisticated and fitted. Elizabeth was also excellent at draping dresses but mainly focused on the fitting once her company grew. By word of mouth is how Elizabeth got to meet Mary Todd Lincoln. This would be the friendship that would change everything. From then on Elizabeth was the personal dressmaker and modiste for Mary. The first lady was known for her youthful styles and patterns and was fascinated by Elizabeth’s Victorian style of dresses. Since fashion was run from the French at the time, many societal women would look to see what the court was wearing in France to see what they wanted from their dressmakers. Elizabeth went on to do many things like write a biography but I really wanted to focus on her influence in the fashion world. Sadly not many of her pieces can be found since it was custom at the time to reuse fabric and no one ever sewed in a label. The only way to know if a gown is from Elizabeth is to look if anyone kept this information of the gown in a diary. But I leave you with some of her gowns from the Smithsonian.