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Style Analysis

Style Analysis: High Fashion Goth

We all saw Kourtney Kardashian and the rest of the clan prancing around Portofino, Italy for her wedding a few months. Decorated in Dolce and Gabbana, with many elements of lace, crosses, and all black. This wedding was very much what I consider “High Fashion Goth”. With the popularity of couples like Kravis and MGK with Megan Fox, the whole gothic aesthetic has come back to shine. This was inevitable as the general rule of thumb is that anything in style 20 years ago will be in style now.

Goth took on many definitions throughout the years. First being the actual gothic period which we know as the Medieval era where we got a lot of cool looking Cathedrals. Second is in literature with the works of Edgar Allen Poe being referenced and popular novels like Frankenstein or Dracula to name a few. For this goth era think the clothing styles of Sleepy Hollow, The Corpse Bride, Wolfman and I dare say Sweeny Todd or The Phantom of the Opera. Perfect time period to call this era is either the late Victoria Era (1880s) or the Gilded Age. Where we strayed from the bustle and introduced fish tail dresses mixed with frills and lace. Then we move on to the goth era that the 1980s introduced. Birthed after the post punk era you want to think lace, velvet, crosses, and leather. This can be seen with how it mixes punk and some aspect of the new romantics. Great designers that do a wonderful job at this style is Vivienne Westwood. In 90s we got heroine chic mixed with grunge. From there emerged Alexander McQueen who used plaid and vintage influences on the runway.

Finally, the early 2000s where all I can think of is bands like My Chemical Romance and bondage pants. This era introduced what we call now the scene kid who has crazy side swept bangs and has a lot of lolita influence to their clothing or just all black. This is the style that we can see slowly coming back with many fashion houses seeing the rise of Y2K they often look at the collections of those years to see how they can evolve their style for today. High fashion goth to me is not the Y2K goth we all saw with the bondage pants, chipped black nail polish, and the ugly tutu skirt over ripped shorts. To me high fashion goth takes the elements of what the traditional styles of then were and reinforces them to be replicated on the runway in a way that will appeal to the eyes of 2022 and 2023. These collections and looks are done in a more sophisticated way. It’s almost vamp glamour meets goth glamour and a little bit of pope fashion here and there.

The runway is often littered with lace, crosses, darker clothes and a lot of late Victoria era hints here and there. This can be seen clearly in the styles we saw the Kardashian clan wear to the wedding. But these elements also bring a different take on the style. It’s much more glamours, almost romantic some would say. There’s something ethereal about the high fashion take on the gothic style that it’s hard to even put into words. Not only can it be portrayed in a whimsical way where there’s lace and frill but it can also be shown in a more tech-wear approach. Elements of what is considered traditional goth fashion has translated amongst many high fashion runway shows that it’s given a new life to it. I feel that now we will see the rise of the chokers and cross necklaces that lay perfectly above the breast. Along with many velvety dress with lace applique peeking through. But we will also see streetwear that has influences of the style or even cottage core morphing into dark fairy core (yes this is what I saw it was called online). A reinterpretation of what we knew and considered high fashion goth.

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The Met Gala

The Met 2022

It’s my favorite time of the year, the one night I look forward to besides my birthday and Christmas. Continuing on from the American theme from the Gala held last September, this exhibit is In America: An Anthology of Fashion. Whereas the red carpet theme was Gilded Glamor. With shows like the Gilded Age this theme should’ve seemed fairly easy for many people to emulate. I have such high hopes in humans unfortunately.

The Gilded Age was an era where people showed off their wealth. Which is a perfect opportunity for these celebrities that get invited to show off the most extravagant things they can wear. Let’s dissect the words gilded and glamor. The definition of gilded is “covered thinly with gold leaf or gold paint” and glamor “an attractive or exciting quality that makes certain people or things seem appealing”. One can take the theme quite literally and cover themselves in gold – as seen on my many people on the carpet – but that’s not what I believe the theme is here. The theme more so revolved around the Gilded Era fashion and the glamorization of it. The Gilded Era is marked from 1870-1900s so I expected many people to dress like that. I was truly wrong but anyways here’s my best dress list. I’ll keep it short and simple because Lord knows a small percentage of people followed the theme.

Cardi B in Versace looks beautiful here quite literally dripping in gold. I love what she said as well that “gilded doesn’t have to be just the age you can be gilded in any time period”. Which is absolutely true and something to note here in this red carpet. She mimicked an old 1900s silhouette but modernized to fit perfectly now in our generation.

Billie Eilish in Gucci giving us another vintage silhouette which I’m here for. Although I would of wanted the coloring to be a little different, that was until I heard that the materials used to make this gown were of left over fabric in the shop. (We love a non-wasteful queen). But other than that I love the look, it’s giving me Victorian, it’s giving me Gone With the Wind, it’s giving old man Vanderbilt. If you know, you know.

Paloma Elsesser in Coach gave off a slight hint to the Gilded Age era. The corset was something used during the time so she’s on my best dress list for being on theme. But overall an okay look.

Sarah Jessica Parker wearing Christopher John Rogers. At first I wasn’t too crazy about the pattern but after hearing what Sarah had to say about the inspiration for the dress it changed my mind. The dress was inspired by the gowns Elizabeth Keckley would make for Mary Todd Lincoln. (For more information on her story you can check my Introductions post on her). Keckley essentially bought her freedom as a slave with her seamstress skills. Sarah wanted to pay homage to her in the gown she wore to The Met as she was one of the many seamstress that often were forgotten in this period of time.

Phoebe Dynevor in Louis Vuitton, although many would say this isn’t on theme I can see hints here and there to the older silhouettes. It’s very glamor in my eyes for sure.

Evan Mock in Head of State. The suit had a corsetted like top which was a trend in the early 1900s as a lot of the women’s styles were slowly transferring onto the mens. Cute but not too crazy about the color (still works on him though).

Shawn Mendez in Tommy Hilfiger. I could honestly care less about Shawn Mendez, he has some good songs here and there but never turned looks. But this look was for the girls. It’s giving romantic love interest, it’s giving Anthony Bridgerton, it’s giving Mr. Darcy, yes.

Rosalia in Givenchy, I have nothing to say other than I love it.

Maude Apatow in Miu Miu, giving the glamor.

Kasey Musgrave in Prada giving me My Fair Lady vibes.

Vanessa Hudgens in Moschino, the puffed shoulders, the drama, the glamor. I’m here for it.

Kendall Jenner in Prada, I love the full skirt and pleated ruffles. A lot of people could do without the top but I think the top is what makes it modern and slightly glam.

Travis Barker and Kourtney Kardashian in Thom Browne. Contrary to a lot of people, I love the fact that Kourtney is wearing a deconstructed version of Travis’ look. His suit definitely hints to that early 1900s style men wore. Despite Kourtney being no-thoughts-head-empty for the theme of the Gala, her wearing his outfit still went very on theme in my opinion. The jacket formed skirt on her has the bustle like style which is very Gilded Age.

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Fashion Forecasting 2022

The first trend that I want to talk about because I feel like I can’t rope it in any of the aesthetic or trends I’ll talk about later is gloves. With such a demand to use them before for covid purposes I’ve been seeing designers bring them into their collections more and more. Whether it’s opera style gloves or something shorter. I even saw Carrie Bradshaw wear gloves to press the elevator button in And Just Like That.

Y2K is a trend that has been talked about a bit now. As we continue in the 20s it’s only fair to predict that Y2K fashion will continue to come back due to the cyclical nature of trends. The early 2000s took a lot of styles from the 60s and 70s. Something that I see developing this year. With the bling of the Bob Mackie style dresses taking an even bigger role. The bling trend in my mind is honestly just Paris Hilton in any shiny/sparkly dress. But towards the end of 2021 I saw that bling trend take on a different role mostly through the bling pants from amazon that have TikTok in a choke hold. But with this trend becoming popular now I see the bling in other variations than just the go to silver. Continuing with Y2K we of course can no longer escape the rise of low rise jeans. Perfect example is Miu Miu’s most recent collection, Spring 2022. It’s basically been set in stone that they will be coming back and there’s not much we can do about it. From Y2K I see the rise of pop punk styles, some old fashion icons I can think of this trend is Avril Lavigne and Hayley Williams. With this aesthetic I see a lot of waist coats, neck ties, and plaid being very big. Honestly this is the trend I’m most excited about because when this style was very popular I was a kid and I couldn’t embrace my true punk kid dreams. We can see this aesthetic and trends becoming very big due to the fact that Megan Fox and MGK as well as Kourtney Kardashian and Travis Barker are the it couples.

Going from the neck ties and plaid I will lead into the next aesthetic/ trend I believe will be super popular, Preppy or Equestrian style. I see the preppy style making a big impact this year due to the Gossip Girl reboot. A lot Julien’s style like varsity jackets and their take on their school uniforms. As well as Polo stripes or riding boots. But another trend I see coming from the Gossip Girl world are flats and tights. Flats were every where in the early 2000s and you can see that in the first iteration of the Gossip Girl series. Along with the tights being a part of that Gossip Girl trend. I definitely have been seeing those Chanel CC print tights all over TikTok and Instagram or the staple Gucci tights everyone loved. But I also see the tights taking on different colors either ranging from pastels to brighter colors. This trend definitely takes from the late 60s early 70s.

Leading into my next trend which is Space- age but very much a 60s version of Space Age. Bubble hems, silver jewelry, shiny fabrics, mini skirts, mod style straight line dresses. The best thing I can use to describe this aesthetic/ trend is the promotional photos that Ariana Grande did for her REM beauty line. Just really out there stuff I’ve already seen certain designers hinting to that aesthetic like Fashion East and Versace. A 60s designer that I think is best reference for this style if Pierre Cardin. I see a lot of cut-outs in this trend as well, whether it be the circle cut-outs or kind of techy cut-outs.

The Matrix is what I would like to call the next aesthetic/trend I see in 2022. It also doesn’t help that they just came out with a new Matrix movie towards the end of last year. With this trend I see cut-outs and layering, a lot of tech- wear inspired items, and leather. Certain designers that come to mind are Balenciaga or Vetements. A lot of digital inspired prints.