NYFW Day One

It’s the most wonderful time of the year again. Happy fashion New Year to those who celebrate. Fashion month has commenced and I’m very excited but stressed already, so here we go.

First and foremost we have to talk about Coach. The Coach Spring Summer 2024 collection was everything for me. Being the American leather house you know they had to show up. Celebrating Vevers 10 years at the house, this collection brushed on his memories of living in New York. The collection was showed at the New York Public Library where there, show-goers were shown to a collection of upcycled leather, denim, and regenerated cotton. Cotton suiting was a big one here along with the sheer trend we saw take the runway last year. Another trend this collection continued was the oddly shaped bags such as duck and hearts. Introductions included kiss stains on garments and handbags. Look 5’s all green suit was the moment here. (We also had some runway crashers here).

Helmut Lang was one of the houses many had their eyes on this season. With Peter Do taking over as creative director everyone was excited on what would be presented. This collection also celebrated New York. Paying homage to the brand being the first to advertise on top of the iconic taxi, yellow was one of the main colors in the collection. The runway was flooded and overwhelming with models almost walking on top of each other to display the overstimulation walking on the streets of NY can be. Down the runway were poems from the author Ocean Vuong and played overhead in the soundtrack. Do brought a few of his signature silhouettes to the collection to make it more him but honestly this was a great choice for creative director. I especially enjoyed the pop of hot pink.

Rodarte is always a dream. Being a brand that is traditionally whimsical and fantasy filled I only expected such. They quite literally brought florals for spring. But this season the colors of the florals were more the focus than the silhouettes. Stating that they focus more on the color of the garment before the idea or construction. Many silhouettes were narrow and straight but a few fluffy ballgowns were snuck in. Floral applique’s and sequins were brought in as well.

Prabal Gurung followed the sheer and suiting trend as well. With embellished tops and dresses in pleated moments that almost looked hand pleated. The dresses were mostly dropped waist while others had a slight peplum look, could this be the return of the peplum silhouette? The details on these pieces is was truly got me.

Private Policy felt a little lackluster. While the collection was great and filled with a lot of pieces I would wear I felt the style or aesthetic is a little overdone. Another collection plagued by sheer and suiting (seeing trends here) it wasn’t much after that then the traditional streetwear styles. Utilitarian pockets and straps on tops like always. Denim done in various looks. Most looks paired with some sort of platform shoe whether it was the UGG like slip ons or a flip flop. Some items gave almost a scuba diver suit feel which I loved but other than that it was just good. But the pink two piece was my favorite along with the sequins tailored coats.

Style Analysis: Nana

With the passing of Vivienne Westwood back last December it was the push to get me to watch the anime Nana that has been on my list for fashion content. If you’re anyone who’s into fashion you would know that Vivienne Westwood is heavily used within this anime. Though I use to be into anime when I was younger my obsession with fashion basically took over my life and this is where the old meets the new. I’m not too sure why I had been putting it off but I understand now as it has been a few months since finishing the show and I still feel cold and empty inside.

Nana focuses around two women in their early 20s both named Nana. They meet on the train to Tokyo where their life is about to change. Nana Komatsu mostly narrates the show and it starts from her perspective. She is very bubbly and girly not just in personality but in style as well. Often very lost in her own world, they nickname her Hatchi for her puppy like behavior, and a touch of naivety she grows up by having the other Nana at her side. Nana Osaki is the other, her style is very punk and reminiscent of Nancy Spungen (Sid and Nancy) but deep down she is actually a softy hiding behind her cold exterior. Following her dreams to be a musician she moves to Tokyo after a year of not performing with her band due to her boyfriend leaving it and causing the band to break up. Hatchi moves because she wants to be with her boyfriend who ends up cheating on her (spoiler sorry.)

Nana Komastu, a.k.a Hatchi, actually got on my nerves with her overly bubbly personality, positive outlook on everything, codependency, and overall emotional self. Am I the pot calling the kettle black? Yes, but the fact that I now know when these traits start to bleed out is very much a win in my book. I guess that was the whole reason why Hatchi was written this way. As you see her grow through the show she does have a great redemption arc, to some extent. Not only are these characteristic prominent in the very first introduction but throughout her style. Hatchi dresses very trendy, she has no set style because she follows whatever is popular. Similar to her following Nana or her ex Shoji and eventually Takumi when she decides to keep his child. (I HATE and love Takumi because of his toxic nature, this is my character flaw that I need to work on). Hatchi doesn’t live for herself and she learns this eventually but gets stuck with Takumi. While and slightly before her friendship with Nana, she wore a few Vivienne Westwood pieces here and there but I feel like it wasn’t until their friendship truly blossomed that she incorporated the designer into her daily attire, Hatchi is very impressionable. Her silhouettes mostly ranged in light, softer or delicate pieces, this made her approachable. Which I want to point out the fact that the constant job hopping she faces in the series, how does she afford Vivienne Westwood. A serious inquiry for a friend, that friend being me because I would kill for some Vivienne.

Nana Osaki is every goth/punk girl’s dreams, yours truly included. (Listen once a goth kid always a goth kid). From the very moment we are introduced to Nana they make it evident that Vivienne Westwood is her go to designer. It’s seen in the notable pieces she wears in her performance to the fans meeting her outside the venue and gifting her a Vivienne piece. I wonder if this has to do with her affixation with The Sex Pistols. A little known fact, the man that helped opened one of Vivienne Westwood’s first shops was the manager of The Sex Pistols, not sure if Nana would be that deep into fashion history though as her main interest is music. Whereas Hatchi follows trends and isn’t quite sure within herself as she has no distinguishable style, Nana is the opposite. She knows who she is and she’s not changing it for anyone. Nana has a very tough exterior to her and that’s not only based in her personality but in her clothing as well. Opting for more harsher materials and wearing a lot of metal, like the Westwood Armour ring. I would compare her style to Taylor Momsen at best. But behind this tough or cold exterior there’s a softness. That could be seen in later episodes when it’s just her and Hatchi. She’s not dressed in her regular garb and seen in a more vulnerable light.

Both women needed each other in their life during this time to grow in ways that they didn’t know they needed growing. Hatch while still under the control of a very toxic person found herself and looked deeper within. She stands up for herself more and its shown towards the end of the anime. Nana has pushed the tough girl facade to be more vulnerable and understand that it’s okay to feel emotion. While the clothes don’t change much in the end they served their purpose during the beginning in understanding these two amazing characters and what they were trying to say. Ai Yazawa understood what needed to be done in this story. Conveying the message in not just her writing but in visuals as well. Having gone to fashion school the knowledge she obtained there only gave her an upper-hand in her story telling. I might give the manga a try but knowing the story isn’t finished eats me up. I want to know what happens next.

NYFW Day Five

Maisie Wilens continued their digital imagery concept from the prior collection. Here they opted out of the runway and showed through a look book, but the photos definitely showed that everything was not what it seems. Stock images were printed across the garments and paired with paper ties, or tin foil shoes, even bubble wrap. The stock images were either distorted to make a pattern while other garments had a stock image face which was kind of unsettling. The pairing with the real and the digital was genius.

Head of State had an overall blue theme within the collection. This was purposeful as Abijako was inspired by his fathers journey to leave Lagos for Spain. The blue symbolizing the ocean a lot of the garments were designed with traditional Nigerian elements. Designing pieces based off the memories of home are something so intimate and that is the feeling that is displayed within this collection. Although I could do without look 32, everything felt traditional and story like.

Altuzarra brought jeweled tones for the Fall months. There was a tie-die print done throughout the beginning of the collection, parkas included. Upon further inspection it wasn’t tie-die but a Rorschach blot. The collection overall was dramatic but in the most elegant way as people tend to go towards black or just overall darker colors for the colder months. It’s exciting to see jewel tones, muted colors, and mauves in this Fall Winter season.

Christian Cowan brought glitz and glamour. This was intentional as his muse for this season was Judy Garland. Silks, feathers, sheer, and over the top headpieces dominated the runway. Look 6 being such an icon as well as look 35. Overall the collection was very theatrical and almost gave a Vegas show girl vibe but in a sophisticated manner.

NYFW Day Four

Palomo Spain explored with concepts of being a child and playing dress up. The mood board was filled with childhood photos of the team. Titled the closet, this collection was about how we use to play dress up with our mothers clothing. During this stage in your life you are exploring who you are and what feels like you. The fabrics and items ranged with pieces that can be found in the closet and bedroom. Terri-cloth, duvets, even pillows. It was a child’s dream come to life.

Coach’s silhouette was very long this season. Maxi skirts and long sweater dresses. Along with shearling and denim we were also introduced to metallics. The sweater dresses varied with different logos, one with NY, Superman, and so on. The sheer trend is still going strong and Coach is one of the many brands to prove that this season.

LaQuan Smith was all about tailoring and trousers. While maintaining their signature cutouts and sexiness, this collection also played with sophistication. Maturity being a major trend, this collection does not fall short from that. We see sexy mature looks in black, purples, and metallics. The Smith girl always gives the feeling of they’re better than you without even trying and everyone knows that.

Priscavera gave off all the 90s vibes. Sheer, gingham, and plaid were scattered throughout the runway. Another collection of the mature sexy woman was done here. Trousers with contrasting stitch and silk pant suits brought a sleek sweet look. While the plaid edged up the collection.

NYFW Day Two

Sandy Liang always having this sweet girl like aesthetic shifted this season. Soft and sweet looks adorn the runway but with a slight juxtaposition. Liang wanted to bring a more utilitarian edge to the garments, a dress that could be worn doing whatever. Puffer jackets were styled with delicate pieces. Balaclavas were added to dresses to “toughen” them up. I call this angsty babydoll core.

PH5 is always teaching us on how we can create a better tomorrow. This season they continued their conversation on how plastic effects marine life. Even taking the left over plastic from some of their pieces and crocheting them into bags or even into something that is sort of a gift with purchase. Traditionally always having knitted pieces this season there were many woven items and the designer even encourage their buyers to play around with the hem of the garments to create interesting layered looks.

Proenza Schouler took inspiration from the women around them, friends and family. There were very little to no prints within the collection. The tie-dye dress was done in a more muted tone. Sequins dresses with various cuts almost making it look like tentacles were shown as well. A lot of various cuts within the garments were shown even a diagonal zipper on the back of some blazers.

Heron Preston showed for the first time at NYFW since his collab with the sanitation department in 2016. The invites for this collection were garbage as he understands a lot of the invitations ends up going in the garbage. Titled “anything goes” as many random pieces that you would never think of styling together were. Preston has taken inspiration from everyone as he stated that ” the faces of fashion are all of us”. Down to the chain mail dresses being inspired by fences.

Area’s invitations sparked a sort of buzz last week with everyone posting them online. They were banana’s delivered in a brown paper bag. The audio played before the collection was of the sound of flies buzzing around. Then the banana decorated garments descended on the runway. First ranging in pink, purple, and blue tie-dye to mimic a bruised banana. After the bruised banana were the all yellow looks followed by bandage dresses with the banana shapes wrapping around the body. (The bandage dress is back).

Anna Sui brought the 60s back with this recent collection. Inspired by a photo of her friend wearing couture Chanel in the 1960s, she reinvented the Peppermint Lounge for the show. It was an intimate setting where models were shown dancing the twist. Pieces included slips with lace trimming, colorful fur coats with matching hosiery, and even bunny ears. Sui this season wanted to showcase to the younger generation a time before phones where people would dress nice for each other and go dancing. Understanding her audience she also included pieces with 90s and 2000s style to them.

NYFW Day One

It’s my favorite holiday season. New York Fashion Week has officially started. This week starts off with Rodarte. Commencing with a Morticia like aesthetic. The first few gowns that ascended the runway were all black. Oddly enough the inspiration for this season were fairies, in this case gothic fairies. The Mulleavy’s even had their mother draw fairies that were later printed on the gowns towards the end of the show. From wings to head pieces, down to even the makeup the inspiration was displayed all around. One of the finales pieces, silver, even giving Maleficent.

Kate Spade is not normally a brand I talk about as it was something never within my realm of interest but this Fall Winter 2023 collection truly revived them. Ranging in an array of colors and shapes this collection had a lot of color blocking. We were also introduced to the Kate Spade green which is now the house’s signature color. The collection brought a youthful energy to a brand that I feel often can be stuffy which makes me very excited for them.

Prabal Gurung inspiration this season was the butterfly. Butterfly wings were enlarged and scattered through the collection. Even the pattern spots on their wings were incorporated as well. Along with the animal print were bold colors. Something sort of reviving for the colder months as often you see darker shades and feel a sense of overall gloom. Gurung brought rebirth to the Fall Winter season with this collection.

Dion Lee also played with animal print. A brand known for the luxury high end rave wear, this season was a bit toned down. Maturity is the feeling that comes to mind after viewing this collection. Not only did they stick to their roots with their rave wear but also brought pieces that can be worn on the daily and fit into anyones wardrobe. Reptile scales or skin was used throughout the collection as well which fit perfect with the maturity aspect of it all. I love the quote given “representation of the shedding of skin”, very well done here.

Wednesday

We are welcomed again by the ghoulish Addams family in their newest tv reboot, Wednesday. An avid Addams family fan, I was very hesitant for this show. Mainly because Christina Ricci as Wednesday is a character I grew up with. Wednesday here is a teen and we see how her life unfolds at Nevermore Academy. Placing a notable character in a high school I thought was perfect for this new rendition. As this would be perfect to get to know Wednesday through her personal style.

Never straying from black and white, we see various iterations of the traditional Peter Pan collared dress. Which I believe one version being a laced collar. But straying away from tradition we see Wednesday’s personality really unfold in her looks. Here she’s donning checkered print vest, wide leg trouser, stripes, joggers, and a lot more Gen Z trends. Wednesday here is not just stuck to her pilgrim collar look, she is much more modern. Her personality was shown through the clothing along with the other characters. Take the dance scene for example. While white was the overall theme you can see that each individual character has their specific aesthetic applied to their look. Wednesday, obviously wearing black, had a dress that fit her style but also separated from the typical.

Some notable items from Wednesday’s wardrobe I love are the Prada monoliths, her puffer vest when she’s searching Xavier’s room, and that one leather jacket that looks like the Courreges everyone and their mom has. While the school uniform is very fitting for the overall aesthetic there are a few changes I would do. Changing Wednesday’s uniform to all black was perfect but I believe swapping the pleated skirt out for a faux leather one would of been genius. Although I do understand the reasoning for staying the same as everyone else. In the scenes where she’s looking for clues on who the killer could be and learning about Goody Addams she’s mostly seen wearing detective looks. Trench leather coat was fitting and I believe she has two versions of it, one being the full length and one that is cropped. While all these styles are a great introduction I believe there’s still more to Wednesday that we have to see. In future seasons I would love to see her styled in a more Y2K goth or maybe even borderline indie sleaze while still having pieces that reference her roots. Maybe even a little Versace, Jenna Ortega did wear one of their looks for the premiere. I did do the Wednesday trend on tiktok so go over there and check it out, tati_violet

The Balenciaga Scandal

The past two weeks have been overwhelmingly full of Balenciaga. With news outlets highlighting the two ad campaigns that have been release within the same week. Both with accusations of child abuse and pornography. In the age of relevancy and fashion brands trying to get the most clout, when is too much finally considered too much? Who is truly at fault and who should fully take the blame?

Let’s first differentiate the two ads as many people are pairing them as one. The first being the Gift Collection campaign with the children holding the teddy bear bags. The second being the Garde Robe ad with props used in the background – that being the court document – with suggestive undertones. Often highlighting topics in collections that can be hard to talk about, Denma is not shy of provoking with recent collections having left the audience chattering. But has Denma gone too far with these ads?

The style of photography for the Gift Collection was in the style of the photographer Gabriele Galimberti. Often the items laid in front of the person are items of their personal life but that was not the case here. We see wine glasses, beer, and of course the bondage on the teddy bear purse. Things that are quite often never associated with children. For the traditional Balenciaga follower the bags are not something strange for the brand as they were seen in their most recent show. Although having children model them was not a very well thought out idea. These editorials are often run by a team with the brand along with advisors on what will be interpreted in such a way. The blame here can be put on the photographer and brand as they pitch the idea to him and he can choose whether or not he wants to go with it. This campaign is also pitched to the parents of the models. Which makes me question what parent would be okay with their child being displayed like this.

With the Gift Collection deleted the following days the brand posted the Garde Robe campaign one that was styled in an office setting. After careful inspection people noted that one photo pertained the court documents of the 2008 trial of US v Williams which highlights child pornography not covered by the first amendment. Then another photo where a stack of books were strategically placed in the background with one by Michael Borremans an artist with questionable artwork depicting children. (If you happen to look up the artist and their artwork you have been warned). Both ads and props are far from coincidental at this point. Calls for cancel culture and the brand being shut down as a whole have polluted all of social media. Balenciaga since has issued out numerous apologies and the measure they’re going to take.

But where does this leave us now? Having the power and status of a heritage house like Balenciaga you would understand that what you communicate is important. We can all morally agree that child abuse and pornography is wrong and something that should never be taken lightly. This pointing fingers of the props being brought from a third party or the photos being done in the style of the photographer are just excuses at the end of the day. The brand has an idea and what they want to be showcased and go through the appropriate outlets to get that task done. This could of been someone just not doing their job at all but at the expense of what. You create controversy and in turn have numerous people possibly lose their job. Kering – owner of Balenciaga – at this point might even take this as clearing house opportunity.

At the end of the day Balenciaga is left with two choices, close or rebrand. Closing would be the wishes of many angered parents and honestly the wishes of Cristobal as he never intended on continuing the brand after his retirement in 1968. Rebranding would be hard and tricky as nothing ever dies down due to the internet. But not entirely impossible. They need to take out the people who agreed to promote any of this, take time out of the spotlight, stop trying to rush into damage control and reassess. Then we shall see.

Anxiety in Fashion: Sizing

Often referred to Label Anxiety, sizing in clothing is a love and hate relationship amongst many when it comes to shopping. Why is it that in one store you’re a certain size but in the other it’s completely different. There is a drastic change in sizing and it’s something that’s been very prominent recently. For many, this sizing issue/ label anxiety can lead them down a spiral of no return. It has lead to depression, anxiety, body dysmorphia, eating disorders, even conflict in relationships. But why has the sizing changed so much?

Before, clothes were made to order. You would go to a store, they would take your measurements and within a few days or weeks the garment was ready for you. (The timing on how fast this item was constructed might be off so don’t hold me to it and a perfect example of this is in my favorite show Velvet). This is what sprung pret a porter or ready to wear. Ready to wear makes the collection more accessible as it creates a certain amount of garments in generic sizes. Although this was a great advance in fashion at the time it doesn’t stop the fact that human beings and their bodies change over time. There’s a study that shows that a size 8 today is what was a size 16 before. Sizing has changed a lot within the last few years because companies have had to keep up with the changing of bodies. Recent study shows that obesity is at an all time high and companies have to keep up to be able to have sizing available for them. This is in no way body shaming but to show the drastic change in what we believed were generic sizes. (It also doesn’t stop the thought that women were a lot thinner back thin due to numerous reason that we won’t get into in this post).

From this increase in sizing to keep up with the change in societies bodies comes “Vanity Sizing”. Vanity sizing is essentially when a garment is labelled a smaller size when it’s really not. This is done in order for consumers to purchase more from that brand because when a person sees they fit into a smaller size or a smaller number on the label they are more prone to purchasing it. This can be a double edged- sword as many brands vary in sizing and thus causing more anxious thoughts for the consumers. Brands work hard in their marketing and a key component in marketing is preying on emotions because emotions are the easiest way to get consumers. (I learned this from a guy I went on a date once who was studying marketing at FSU, needless to say I never saw him again). With the sizing being unpredictable in stores people often blame themselves when they can’t fit into what they thought was their size. But what truly is the correct size?

I believe we shouldn’t blame the fashion industry entirely for this label anxiety as it can be hard to cater to everyone. This is something we’ve heard time and time again. But we should blame them when brands advocate as “size inclusive” but custom make that trendy look for a cover and don’t sell that size in stores. (Hate to say it but, I’m looking at you Miu Miu). Neither do I want to blame society for ranging in body types. In a perfect world I hope we could find a happy medium but we don’t live in a perfect world. So where does that leave us in this argument? I don’t think I have a stance on this argument. I believe that you should do whatever makes you happy and not let a size or label define you. Be happy and healthy.

The Met 2022

It’s my favorite time of the year, the one night I look forward to besides my birthday and Christmas. Continuing on from the American theme from the Gala held last September, this exhibit is In America: An Anthology of Fashion. Whereas the red carpet theme was Gilded Glamor. With shows like the Gilded Age this theme should’ve seemed fairly easy for many people to emulate. I have such high hopes in humans unfortunately.

The Gilded Age was an era where people showed off their wealth. Which is a perfect opportunity for these celebrities that get invited to show off the most extravagant things they can wear. Let’s dissect the words gilded and glamor. The definition of gilded is “covered thinly with gold leaf or gold paint” and glamor “an attractive or exciting quality that makes certain people or things seem appealing”. One can take the theme quite literally and cover themselves in gold – as seen on my many people on the carpet – but that’s not what I believe the theme is here. The theme more so revolved around the Gilded Era fashion and the glamorization of it. The Gilded Era is marked from 1870-1900s so I expected many people to dress like that. I was truly wrong but anyways here’s my best dress list. I’ll keep it short and simple because Lord knows a small percentage of people followed the theme.

Cardi B in Versace looks beautiful here quite literally dripping in gold. I love what she said as well that “gilded doesn’t have to be just the age you can be gilded in any time period”. Which is absolutely true and something to note here in this red carpet. She mimicked an old 1900s silhouette but modernized to fit perfectly now in our generation.

Billie Eilish in Gucci giving us another vintage silhouette which I’m here for. Although I would of wanted the coloring to be a little different, that was until I heard that the materials used to make this gown were of left over fabric in the shop. (We love a non-wasteful queen). But other than that I love the look, it’s giving me Victorian, it’s giving me Gone With the Wind, it’s giving old man Vanderbilt. If you know, you know.

Paloma Elsesser in Coach gave off a slight hint to the Gilded Age era. The corset was something used during the time so she’s on my best dress list for being on theme. But overall an okay look.

Sarah Jessica Parker wearing Christopher John Rogers. At first I wasn’t too crazy about the pattern but after hearing what Sarah had to say about the inspiration for the dress it changed my mind. The dress was inspired by the gowns Elizabeth Keckley would make for Mary Todd Lincoln. (For more information on her story you can check my Introductions post on her). Keckley essentially bought her freedom as a slave with her seamstress skills. Sarah wanted to pay homage to her in the gown she wore to The Met as she was one of the many seamstress that often were forgotten in this period of time.

Phoebe Dynevor in Louis Vuitton, although many would say this isn’t on theme I can see hints here and there to the older silhouettes. It’s very glamor in my eyes for sure.

Evan Mock in Head of State. The suit had a corsetted like top which was a trend in the early 1900s as a lot of the women’s styles were slowly transferring onto the mens. Cute but not too crazy about the color (still works on him though).

Shawn Mendez in Tommy Hilfiger. I could honestly care less about Shawn Mendez, he has some good songs here and there but never turned looks. But this look was for the girls. It’s giving romantic love interest, it’s giving Anthony Bridgerton, it’s giving Mr. Darcy, yes.

Rosalia in Givenchy, I have nothing to say other than I love it.

Maude Apatow in Miu Miu, giving the glamor.

Kasey Musgrave in Prada giving me My Fair Lady vibes.

Vanessa Hudgens in Moschino, the puffed shoulders, the drama, the glamor. I’m here for it.

Kendall Jenner in Prada, I love the full skirt and pleated ruffles. A lot of people could do without the top but I think the top is what makes it modern and slightly glam.

Travis Barker and Kourtney Kardashian in Thom Browne. Contrary to a lot of people, I love the fact that Kourtney is wearing a deconstructed version of Travis’ look. His suit definitely hints to that early 1900s style men wore. Despite Kourtney being no-thoughts-head-empty for the theme of the Gala, her wearing his outfit still went very on theme in my opinion. The jacket formed skirt on her has the bustle like style which is very Gilded Age.