PFW Finale

Valentino was entirely made up of pink and black looks. Although the pink leaned more towards a fuchsia color it did remind me of the scene from Funny Face, “Think Pink”. As someone who mostly wears black and white, this collection was very me because I either fall for all black looks or all pink. Consisting of 81 garments this collection had all the extravagance that the Valentino brand is known for. Pierpaolo instead of choosing the Valentino signature color he opted for the fuchsia to break out of the tradition. This collection brought us bubble hem dresses, opera coats, overcoats, tailored suits, and opera gloves to say the least. The cohesiveness of this collection brought me so much joy. From the sheer looks and the cutouts everything was very put together, perfection.

Miu Miu continued with the preppy look that started in the Spring 2022 collection. The aesthetic this time around reminds me of old money. Not only does this collection continue the preppy aesthetic but it also introduced the ballet aesthetic that is very popular this trend cycle. Apparently low -rise is forever, everyone is obsessed with that one Miu Miu look from Spring 2022 so we know the same will follow for this one. Tennis chic is what I have in my notes, I feel it’s very fitting with the sweaters and uniform like styles. Although this aesthetic and silhouette is taking over the meta-verse it doesn’t deny the fact that it only works for slender people. While it’s great that this style works for non-binary people it’s sad to say that many do not believe it works on people who are not extremely thin. Take into consideration the magazine cover for I-D, Paloma Elsesser is wearing a custom Miu Miu made look because it doesn’t come in her size. This is counter productive because how are you as a brand going to preach size inclusivity when the set doesn’t even come in that size and had to be custom made? Although I do love this collection it really makes me think, is it cute or are they just skinny.

PFW Day Seven

Schiaparelli FW 2022 left me with one thought and that was Edward Scissorhands. If you don’t think the same then look at Look 4. Other than that this collection brought on the denim which isn’t always a material I would think of for the colder months. This lookbook was set to have a sort of aesthetic influence from Herb Ritts. After looking up his photography and learning more about it I can definitely see what they used for references. But I will say that before I knew this piece of information this collection seemed very Tim Burton in my opinion. (Tim Burton aesthetic is what I mean ). From the shapes and oddity of it all it definitely gave off that Burton aesthetic from someone who watched a lot of his movie’s growing up. But also the odd shapes are a staple in the surrealism art community. Throughout the collection we see signature motifs like the breast plate and jeweled embellishments around the breasts mostly and body. A lot of 80s silhouettes sprinkled here and there as well.

Balenciaga, okay first we all know that reminded us of McQueen’s show, Scanners AW 03. With that aside, I thought the runway show was great, aesthetically. A lot of the models were having difficulties getting down the runway -obviously, but not Ms. Bella Hadid, my homegirl that I root for – but that made it all more enticing. Denma was a refugee and used that as inspiration for the collection. Displayed the climate and disarray in garments and emotion during that time of fleeing. With the tragic news that had just occurred in Ukraine at the time of the collection, that news brought Denma a lot of repressed trauma from his youth. Blue and yellow flags were laid on the seats of show goers with the statement from Denma “love must win”. At the beginning, there was a poem recited in the Ukrainian language and not translated in order to keep its authenticity. The scenery was that of a snow globe to play on the conversation of climate change. Displayed as almost a meta-verse – the world we’re honestly already living – snow environment to say if we continue down the path we are in then snow will seize to exist. (I for one have never seen snow but that thought of living in a world where I might never see snow makes me upset). The leather jackets were made of the Balenciaga alternative leather, deriving from mycelium. Another show full of all black with hints of color here and there. The ending looks being in yellow and blue to say that they’re with Ukraine.

Givenchy gave me the grungy-emo girl looks that my inner teenage emo girl is screaming for. The collection mostly consisting of all black, had 70 looks that incorporated some sort of layered pieces. There was denim, leather, layered t-shirts and baggy pants galore. Williams looked at Givenchy’s muses like Audrey Hepburn pearls as inspiration for how to decorate clothing in a modern Givenchy way. This motif can be seen in the pearl embroidered jeans. The t-shirts were used a garter belt style when layered which I thought was really clever.

PFW Day Six

Marine Serre is one of my favorite designers so you already know I had to put my girl on this post. “Hard Drive Exhibition” are the words we were greeted by once their video started. The 49 looks were set up in a museum that would reflect Serre’s past work. We were introduced to a white and black moon printed looks that kind of mimicked those of Spring 2021 in a way. (I believe the material used is completely different though). From the black and white emerged tartan which I’ve been seeing a lot this season. This collection had their signature moon print but brought out quilted looks as well, another trend that I’ve been seeing amongst other collections. Very grandma’s quilted blanket here in the Marine Serre show.

Lanvin was full out Art Deco and 20s -30s silhouettes (or interwar as everyone has been referencing this season). This inspiration I feel like is a given since fashion repeats itself and so does history, I feel it would only make sense that the style 100 years ago would be in style now. Due to covid being a global pandemic and the Spanish flu 100 years ago, makes sense. Along with the 20s and 30s style comes Egyptian styles, very prominent in that era as well. We see this in look 42 for sure it’s the first one that came to mind to me at least. The pantsuits and gowns both referencing 30s Hollywood glamour in my opinion.

PFW Day Five

Loewe was full of surrealism per usual. From balloons squished into dresses and shoes. Shoes being stuffed down a few dresses, surrealism is everywhere. The gowns with the car silhouette at the bottom insinuated a “go” quite literally and metaphorically. The sheer (?) patent leather (?) or PVC (?) shirts looking almost crystal like on the body. Anderson took inspiration from feminist art in this collection. I can see hints of it in the placements of the tie part of the balloons on gowns or the lip motif going on in looks 14 and 15. Everything had sort of a hint of feminization wherever you looked.

Nina Ricci was just so much tulle. First I would like to point out the screen printed florals on the garments because I always want to make the joke from The Devil Wears Prada. The collection was constructed of traditional fall/winter staples. Such as long coats, puffers, trousers, or anything tailored-like. There were a few PVC looking pieces, honestly not sure what was used, like the bucket hats and this flower neck tie-thing. It gave a very 60s version of futurism/tech-wear.

PFW Day Four

Coperni FW 22 kind of reminded me of Miu Miu Spring 2022. (Yes, I said it ). With the success of the scholarly-preppy styles mixed into Y2K its obvious to see the interest and pull. This collection was dedicated to Ukraine and this can be seen in the looks yellow and blue who seem to follow each other. Not only the color combination was a nod to Ukraine but most of the garments were constructed in Kyiv, Ukraine. The set up of the runway was a high school and was done so to mimic the stages one goes through. The evolution of a caterpillar to a butterfly that one goes through in their high school years. (And if you didn’t then clearly you haven’t left your high school mentality).

Rave Review, plaid or tartan (not sure) was everywhere. The garments were upcycled pieces to infuse rave and workwear. Bergqvist and Schuck wanted to reference their rave days but in a way that can be also worn in the work place. This is shown through how the garments were constructed and styled. From this collection a cryptopanty was created that was also somehow made of upcycled NFTs, I don’t know how that is even possible but it happened. Other than that I don’t have much to say about this collection. It wow-ed me enough to put in a blog post and share with you all.

Rick Owens people intimidate me mainly because I feel like I can’t pull off Rick Owens at all. But this collection was probably my favorite by far on day four. Just like Saint Laurent earlier that week, we see another hint of old Hollywood glamour take shape in the gowns. The collection had some utilitarian styles which I feel like is a staple for the brand (if I’m wrong please don’t shoot me). Puffer jackets were displayed but not just in the traditional puffer jacket silhouettes, some actually had a neck puff moment. There were many cloaks like those we saw from New York Fashion Week. Coats lined with goat fur and looks styled in blue and yellow to reference the Ukrainian flag during this terrible time.

PFW Day Three

Sandy Liang FW 22 took inspiration from behind-the-scene photos of Marie Antoinette. From the cast members doing mundane modern things in the their vintage costumes to the clips in the movies where they placed a pair of converse in the try on section. Amongst her inspiration board as well were Polly Pockets and photos of a deconstructed Robe a la Francaise. This collection brought a mixture of french Rococo elements with trendy 2022 pieces. Perfect example is in look 3 where a balaclava was paired with a dress infused with elements of old french fashion. Girly but not in a prissy way was the vibe given throughout the lookbook photos. Office core – not to be confused with The Office, and just my overall name for it – was front and center for a lot if not most of the garments. Ballerina aesthetic, which I and many others have predicted for the 2022 trends, is shown here through the pointe Mary Janes. I want a pair SO BADLY.

Acne studios, the tumblr girl in me is screaming. I’m not saying I’m writing about Acne because of my obsession and longing for wanting anything Acne back in my tumblr days. They just actually have a really good collection for fall/winter. Mostly of up-cycled/ recycled materials the focus was on the brands heritage denim. Quilted grandma blankets resulting in a quilted coat and a patch work denim dress that will have Britney and Justin running. There was a lot of what I call dangly fashion, basically when you have items that drape or hang on the side of the fit. Other than denim we were greeted by leather (what else is new though). I do appreciate how high waisted some of the pants were because when I want high waisted I mean high waisted. Give me below the boob-ribcage – hugging high waisted. They delivered. I don’t have much to say about Acne other than I like it. (Picasso)

Balmain FW 22 greeted me with A Pale by Rosalia which is a BOP. After the dance portion all white looks processed down the catwalk. Most consisting of some utilitarian style, my notes literally read “kind of futuristic or robotic”. There were a few armor pieces that reminded me kind of Mugler. There were these platform boots, that Oliver also wore for the end bow, that I’m kind of obsessed with. Very the Addams family/ Munster’s vibes. Platform boots are going to be everywhere from the looks of it. From the white looks we transition to all black looks that have almost a moto influence to them. With some jackets replicating the shapes and silhouettes of motorcycles along with the dresses. I was a very big fan of looks 93 through 100, with the screen print bodies or body armors vest (look 95) which give it a more robotic aesthetic. I love how mechanic and moto-like the garments were constructed

PFW Day Two

Di Pesta brought us all the stages of womanhood. With one of her main focuses being pregnancy this season. We follow the story of a woman and all her forms from being a daughter to a mother. The myth of Persephone was used as another inspiration for this collection. The Underworld can be seen through the background used. With the collection being inspired by the stages of the woman form the garments were designed to be worn during and after pregnancy. This can be seen in the corset and trousers that unclasp at both nipple and waist to allow breast feeding and room for your growing belly. I personally really loved this collection because of the different bodies we saw displayed throughout. No woman looks the same pregnant or not and Di Pesta did a wonderful job making garments that complimented their bodies. Continuing with her signature wet illusion look she also made an effort to have most of the materials either be recycled or deadstock, which makes me love this collection even more.

Saint Laurent was full with 30s old Hollywood glamour silhouettes. Most of the gowns consisting of straight elongated lines and sophistication. Not only were we met with the 30s silhouette from the gowns but 80s and 90s as well. The collection was minimal but I don’t particularly think in a boring – like I’ve seen many do recently – but in a way that show’s class and elegance without trying too hard. Vaccarello being from Belgium brought a lot of of Belgian styles with a Parisian twist. I don’t have much to say other than it was a handsome collection and a nice way to take a breath of fresh air from the show-more and micro collections that we’ve seen all of fashion month.

PFW Day One

Off-White, “Question Everything” was displayed on two white flags. This Fall/Winter collection was not only a ready-to-wear but the first haute couture collection. Designed by Virgil but finished by the creative teams and collaborators whom he worked with, was written in the show notes. The collection, titled “Spaceship Earth: an ‘Imaginary Experience”, was another tribute to Virgil. With certain signatures that make the brand being incorporated in new ways. There was knitwear with cut-outs, tailored looks, and as well as puffer style jackets. Fall/Winter brought a mature look to a brand mostly grouped with the streetwear culture. Haute couture brought on so much tulle. We were first introduced to the haute couture with Bella Hadid walking in with a wedding gown. (At this very moment my jaw actually dropped, I know that’s a figure of speech but it actually did). Seeing the likes of Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and many numerous beautiful models in the couture pieces brought me so much joy. During the couture portion of the show there were clear indicators that hinted towards Virgil’s struggles with health like the bag that read “More Life” and another bag filled with red and white pills. (Look 76 was by far my favorite). But brought on so many gorgeous creations it just amazes me at how talented Virgil was and how talented of a team he has for Off-White.

MFW Day Four

I took a little day break from posting every day because frankly it’s very hard to keep up with fashion month and your girl needs time to take notes. That and the fact that she works a 9-5. Day four of Milan fashion week I fell in love with Bottega Veneta. With Matthieu Blazy taking the lead I was obviously on the fence. A new comer on the scene and of course you want them to succeed. Blazy indeed did succeed. This collection was all about motion, as he stated. The beginning looks from afar can be quite boring to the eye but with a closer look you are met with the fact that they’re made out of leather. This movement or motion theme can be first scene in the side view of looks 12, 13, and 14. If you look at the curve of the coats it almost gives a hint of the garment moving forward. The apparel throughout this collection were in silhouette’s and styles for people on the go. Attire that you would wear out and about, maybe even at work. Another hint of motion is displayed through the skirts. Underneath the skirts in looks 24, 25 and 26 you can see fringe or tassels (whatever you wanna call it). From browsing at the looks again I feel like the clothing was not tight or constrictive to the body. Form fitting at best but not overtly tight, it gives the body air and space for movement. The accessories still played a key role in this collection – obviously because this is Bottega how can you not have a cute bag- as they were put front and center. The Kalimero bag being woven in one piece, this was also applied to the thigh high boots.

MFW Day Three

Sportmax FW 22 collection truly spoke to me mainly because it was mostly all black. The show consisted of asymmetrical dresses that hung so low in the back they might fall off of the model. Browsing through the looks, it gave off a “hot business bitch” look. That’s really how I felt about this collection, a very “hot business bitch”. The Vixen aesthetic is one I see sweeping a few runways this season and this collection was definitely one of them. Pant suits done up in a very “hot business bitch” way. Overall I was pleased.

Versace FW 22, the corset, how I love the corsets. Fall/ Winter Versace shows tend to be my favorite compared to the Spring/Summer. It could be due to the fact that they are made up of mostly dark colors which is what I gravitate towards. Down the runway we saw Versace signatures, like the bleach blonde hair, the dark eyeshadow, and the heels that have taken the internet by storm. Fall/Winter brought a new spin on the heel, they are now pointed. The pant suits in the collection not only were constructed with big shoulders but with a corset middle part. Along with the trendy corsets and pointed Versace heels, the show followed the fetish wear trend with having latex leggings. As well as bringing a new take on the naked dress. Probably one of my top two shows of this season.