PFW Day Five & Six

There weren’t too many shows that I really wanted to talk about for these two days so I picked my top two from both. Starting out with Loewe. Gone are the polly pocket clothes from last season and here are the intensely high waisted pants that I still don’t know if I like or hate. This season was all about elevating the every day wear for women through silhouettes and it definitely was known. Oversized knits started the collection that to my imagination probably feels like the perfect knit blanket from your grandmother. There were also boho bags but like bigger if that makes any sense. I loved that some of the coats had gotten stuck in them which gave the illusion that the were conjoined, something I really hoped for. Anderson is known for doing surrealist takes in the Loewe house but I feel like compared to the other big house that does surrealism, Loewe’s has a more modern taste.

I’m surprised at me liking Nina Ricci so much after Harris Reed became the creative director of the brand because I’m not a big fan of his own label. (Yes, I said that). Here we see various evening wear looks done in a very simple way but it’s effective. I was a fan of the snake print (always have been), the fishnets, and metallic dresses with giant bows.

For day six I have Ann Demeulmeester. A bit more subdue for spring and honestly very dark but there’s something appealing about having a darker color palette for spring collections. Maybe it’s just because I love wearing darker colors but this collection felt very much my vibe. Being a very androgynous brand I enjoyed the obi belts, ribbons and cargo like bottoms.

All eyes were on Alexander McQueen after Sarah Burton announced her departure from the brand. This collection was bittersweet. Referencing collections by Lee and honing in on the staples of the brand. Lee designed for women, that was always his main focus. This collection focused on the female anatomy. The rose resembling a vagina, garments accentuating women’s curves and so on. It’s truly sad to see Sarah go as Lee wanted her to continue his legacy and in a way I feel like we’re losing a pieces of Lee but I’m excited to see who will take over.

PFW Day Five

Loewe brought on the fake clothing. Last season it was full of the pixelated items this season Polly Pocket clothing and garments printed on garments. The world of Loewe is ever growing and it’s shown within this collection. With the rise of everything is leather, Loewe also took part in this trend. The Polly Pocket style clothing specifically was the what is real and what is leather. Leather aside, there were pieces fully made of feathers and suede.

Giambatista Valli inspiration this season was Josephine de Beauharris, the former wife of Napoleon Bonaparte. With the nostalgia in full effect this season this was another brand that looked at past looks. Nostalgia aside, this collection was very regal as well. Tweed and sheer gowns reigned supreme.

Yohji Yamamoto will always have my heart since most of the collections are always in all black. To add pops of colors, red was incorporated in the collection as well. Yamamoto started the show with him singing setting the general mood of the collection. Raw edges, leather, and bias cut dress made up most if not all of the collection.

Nina Ricci was another brand with all eyes on them this fashion month season. With Harris Reed taking over we were all waiting to see what would be brought to the table. Full disclosure I don’t go crazy over Reed’s own brand but Reed at Nina Ricci is another story. Here he perfectly executes the brand’s heritage while keeping it modern. The first look being my favorite.

Finally Coperni will be the finale to my post. Unlike last year where they quite literally made the internet stop, this year they wanted to take a more subtle approach. Riding the high of the spray on dress last year, they decided to bring Robo-dogs to the runway. Here the models would descend down the catwalk and interact with the Robo-dogs, some nodding at them while some held their garments or accessories. This season the designers took inspiration from the folklore “The Wolf & The Lamb”. This is seen throughout the collection as some scenes were printed on garments, look 31. Around 70% of the collection was also recycled.

PFW Day Five

Loewe Spring 2023 commenced with an anthurium in the middle of the runway. This flower is not dainty or often associated with femininity as it comes across more phallic and poisonous which is the message in regards to the looks. Women who wear these garments with that flower don’t want to be perceived as delicate or dainty but as strong and powerful. There is strength in looking soft. Turning from the phallic dresses we have pannier dresses that are so baroque. Everyone is very interested in period dressing now due to Bridgerton which is where I feel the pannier idea came from. From those dresses we have itty bitty ones that I’m not sure you can even call a dress as they’re very short. But steering away from all things dresses, we are met with pixelated garments that are straight out of Minecraft. The “Minecraft glitches” stuck out like a sore thumb. Anderson wanting us to question the fake in nature and I think the Minecraft looks played very well into that.

Issey Miyake Spring 2023 was the first collection done since the founders death. Starting with a moment of remembrance for Miyake. The show was titled “A Form That Breathes”. First looks shown were made up of one single piece. They looked like the clothing on sculptures, carved out and perfect. There were other pieces that continued with that fluidity the brand is know for. Having the breath-like apparel that bounces and moves. Aside from that section, the “Resonant Suits” were made of plants which is something I can’t wrap my head around. The show ended with models and dancers running and dancing on the runway, in a way paying homage to Miyake.

Coperni Spring 2023 brought fashion back to me. Maybe it was because of the ending but lately these past few weeks of fashion month I’ve been feeling unmotivated. Yes, we were in a retrograde and I am a Libra but the collections just weren’t speaking to me as cliche as that sounds. Many of them I thought were just flat out boring and I felt bad because I have to blog about something, I look forward to fashion month. The collection started off with a very Matrix-y vibe. All black looks with a black jacket overlay. The slip dresses were probably one of my favorites, I love a good slip dress, done asymmetrical it gave a new look to the traditional slip dress. We see bra cups used as shoulder pads and shoulder pads being more boxy. The were dress and tops connected with what reminded of me of a notebook spiral. Both giving off the Y2K style but done differently so it doesn’t read too commercially. Then there was the ending where Bella Hadid walked out in her underwear and the designers sprayed her with a liquid that solidified and also became matte. This was genius and I’m beyond amazed. It kind of reminded me of the Spring 1999 McQueen show sans the robots but nonetheless I’m grateful to be alive to see this.

PFW Day Five

Loewe was full of surrealism per usual. From balloons squished into dresses and shoes. Shoes being stuffed down a few dresses, surrealism is everywhere. The gowns with the car silhouette at the bottom insinuated a “go” quite literally and metaphorically. The sheer (?) patent leather (?) or PVC (?) shirts looking almost crystal like on the body. Anderson took inspiration from feminist art in this collection. I can see hints of it in the placements of the tie part of the balloons on gowns or the lip motif going on in looks 14 and 15. Everything had sort of a hint of feminization wherever you looked.

Nina Ricci was just so much tulle. First I would like to point out the screen printed florals on the garments because I always want to make the joke from The Devil Wears Prada. The collection was constructed of traditional fall/winter staples. Such as long coats, puffers, trousers, or anything tailored-like. There were a few PVC looking pieces, honestly not sure what was used, like the bucket hats and this flower neck tie-thing. It gave a very 60s version of futurism/tech-wear.

Paris Fashion Week pt.2

Paris Fashion Week exceeded my expectations and I think there might be another post coming. Please bare with me as I catch, I just had a birthday. As fashion month officially ended on the 5th, this is me catching up to the shows I loved. Loewe brought an interesting view on fashion after the pandemic. As Jonathan Anderson brought many pieces embellished with geometric swag. Metal rods were constructed underneath the fabric to created a 3D silhouette of the shoulder, hips, or waist. With many other collections erasing the past of the pandemic and rushing into the now styles of wanting to show off, this was a big concept for Anderson. Instead of showcasing the now he wanted to implement a sense of birth. The birth chapter of this collection which consisted of minimalistic styles with a hint of a little something here and there. Along with the peculiar geometric shapes were the heel of many shoes. The heels were an array of random objets like birthday candles, nail polish, and even a broken egg.

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Issey Miyake took a deep dive this year, quite literally as the collection shows the models climbing down a latter from a pond. This collection was a deep dive into creativity and the reinventing of a brand as Satoshi Kondo explored silhouettes that were not typically a go to for them. A look that I absolutely loved from this collection were the spiral-circular looks, as stated by Kondo, the brand decided to follow the formations of the ocean. The knit-ribbed fabric follows the ripple of the waves in the ocean and create a new look for this style of dress.

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Balenciaga Spring 2022 brought a red carpet premier to Paris Fashion Week. As the stars and invited guests made their way to the theatre to get a taste to see what Denma will be bringing to the brand this time around. The actual audience being seated inside watched the models embody other celebrities, while celebrities embodied models and so on. While these ‘models’ continued down the red carpet the audience inside got a closer look of the looks that walked down. The cameras zoomed in on the garments, the shoes, etc. The crowd ooo-ing and aw-ing at the collection Demna had presented on the big screen. The red carpet was used to premier the Simpsons x Balenciaga film. Where Marge and Bart end up modeling in Paris where they are dressed in signature Balenciaga looks from prior collections.

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